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Wet kale leaves growing in a garden

Oregon · Washington · Idaho

When to plant kale

Plant in the garden: Portland and Seattle Mar 15 – Apr 26; Spokane Apr 15 – May 27; Boise Apr 1 – May 13; Bend May 12 – Jun 23.

Kale is a cabbage-family plant that never forms a head: you eat the leaves, picked a few at a time from the bottom of the stem up, raw in salads, cooked like spinach or baked into chips. Seed racks carry three main looks: tightly curled kale, dark, bumpy lacinato (also called Tuscan or dinosaur kale) and flat, frilly Russian kale, which is the most cold-hardy of the three.

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Puts kale on your free plan, with dates for your town and a spot in your beds.

Difficulty
Easy
Sun
Full sun to part shade
Spacing
18 inches apart
Planting depth
Plant starts at the depth they grew in the pot
Frost
Handles light frost
First harvest
About 60 days after planting

One of the best crops for Northwest winters; frost sweetens the leaves.

Kale planting dates

TownsStart seeds indoorsPlant in the gardenPlant again for fall
Portland, OR, Seattle and Tacoma, WAFeb 1–15Mar 15 – Apr 26Aug 6–20
Spokane, WAMar 4–18Apr 15 – May 27Aug 3–17
Boise and Meridian, ID, Astoria, ORFeb 18 – Mar 4Apr 1 – May 13Aug 6–20
Bend and Redmond, ORMar 31 – Apr 14May 12 – Jun 23—

Dates for six main cities. For any of the other 80 towns, type it in the box at the top of the page or browse all towns.

Kale year at a glance

TaskJFMAMJJASOND
Start indoorsFeb
PlantMarAprAug
HarvestJanFebMarAprJunJulAugSepOctNovDec

Around Portland. Colder towns, especially east of the Cascades, run a few weeks later; the table above has your town's planting dates.

How to grow kale

  1. Start seeds indoors on your city's dates in trays or small pots under a grow light or in your sunniest window. Or skip this step and buy young plants (starts) at a garden center.
  2. Harden off the young plants: about a week before planting, set them outside for a few hours a day, a little longer each day.
  3. Plant them in the garden on your city's dates, 18 inches apart. Plant starts at the depth they grew in the pot.
  4. Water deeply once or twice a week rather than a little every day, and mulch once the soil is warm.
  5. Plant again on your city's dates for a fall harvest.
  6. Harvest: Pick the lower leaves and let the top keep growing. Plants often produce from fall through spring west of the Cascades.

Video by Royal Horticultural Society. Plays from YouTube when you click it. Watch on YouTube

Growing kale in your part of the Northwest

The same plant behaves differently on the wet west side, the foggy coast and the dry, colder east side.

West-side valleys

Willamette Valley, Puget Sound, southern Oregon

Kale is a year-round crop here. Plants set out in summer keep producing through most winters, and frost makes the leaves sweeter. Aphids and cabbage worms are the usual pests.

Coast

Oregon and Washington coast

Kale thrives in the cool, moist climate and can be picked almost all year.

East of the Cascades

Columbia Basin, Yakima, Boise, Spokane, north Idaho

Summer heat makes leaves tough and brings aphids, so focus on spring and fall crops. In colder winters, a row cover or low tunnel keeps plants going longer.

High desert and mountain towns

Central Oregon, high eastern Oregon valleys, McCall, Salmon

Kale is one of the hardiest crops here and is fine through summer thanks to cool nights. Plants survive hard frosts, though a deep cold snap ends the season.

More kale varieties

More widely sold picks that do well somewhere in the Northwest. The tag says which part of the Northwest suits each one best.

Lacinato

Dark blue-green, Italian · 60 days

Also called dinosaur or Tuscan kale, with long, bumpy, dark leaves and a rich flavor. It is tender for kale and very good in soups and salads.

Both sides

Red Russian

Flat-leaf, purple stems · 50 days

Tender, oak-shaped gray-green leaves with purple stems and veins. Very cold hardy, it often produces through a mild Northwest winter and is great as baby greens.

Coast and west side

Winterbor

Curly hybrid, cold hardy · 60 days

Tall plants with thick, ruffled blue-green leaves. It is one of the hardiest curly kales and keeps producing through fall and much of winter.

Both sides

Dwarf Blue Curled Vates

Compact curly kale · 55 days

Low, compact plants with finely curled blue-green leaves. Hardy and easy to fit into small beds, it stays productive well after frost.

Both sides

Redbor

Curly purple hybrid · 55 days

Deeply curled leaves that turn deep red-purple, especially after cold weather. Tasty and very ornamental, it works in vegetable beds and fall containers.

Both sides

How much to grow

How many to plant

For a family of four, 4 to 6 plants keep you in kale for months. Plant a few more in late summer for winter picking.

What to expect

Each plant gives a handful of leaves a week for many months.

Storing the harvest

Leaves keep a week or more in a bag in the fridge. Blanch and freeze extras.

What to plant after kale

Around Portland, the kale harvest wraps up around April. These crops can still go into the same bed, and they come from a different plant family, which helps with rotation.

Portland dates. Pick your town at the top of the page for yours.

Key numbers

Top care tip: Harvest the lower leaves and always leave the top five or six so the plant keeps growing.

The plant science

The plant biology behind the advice above, in plain language.

Why frost makes kale sweeter

As temperatures drop, kale converts some of its starch into sugars, which act as a natural antifreeze in its cells. The result is noticeably sweeter, milder leaves after a few frosts. Hardy varieties like Winterbor and Red Russian survive into the low teens or below, and west of the Cascades kale often produces all winter.

Soil and clubroot

Kale grows best in fertile soil with a pH of about 6.0 to 7.5. In the Northwest, the main soil threat is clubroot, a soilborne disease of the whole cabbage family that causes swollen, distorted roots and wilting plants. It thrives in acidic, wet soil, and its spores survive in the ground for many years.

If clubroot has shown up before, raise the pH to about 7.2 with lime at least a month before planting, improve drainage, and don't plant any cabbage-family crops in that spot for several years. Start with clean transplants and don't move soil from infected beds.

Feeding and water

Kale is a leaf crop, so it responds well to nitrogen. Mix compost and a balanced fertilizer into the bed, then side-dress with a little more nitrogen a month or so after planting. Keep the soil evenly moist; drought makes leaves tough and strong-flavored.

Pests

Cabbage aphids form gray, waxy colonies, often under leaves and in the growing tip. Blast them off with water, remove badly infested leaves, and let ladybugs and parasitic wasps do the rest. The green caterpillars are imported cabbageworms, the larvae of the white butterflies seen over gardens in summer. Row cover from planting day keeps the butterflies from laying eggs; Bt, a bacterial spray that affects only caterpillars, controls them if they're already there.

Flowering in spring

Kale is a biennial. After a winter of cold, it flowers the next spring. Before the flowers open, the tender shoots (often sold as kale raab) are sweet and good to eat. Once flowers open, pull the plant and compost it.

Harvest and storage

Pick the lowest, oldest leaves first and leave at least five or six leaves on top so the plant keeps growing. Kale stores best near freezing with high humidity, so keep it bagged in the fridge, where it lasts one to two weeks.

Good neighbors and crop rotation

Good neighbors

  • Lettuce and spinach. Fill the space under young kale before it grows large.
  • Onions and garlic. Narrow crops that tuck in around the big leaves.

Keep apart

  • Other cabbage-family crops in the same bed every year. Shared pests and clubroot build up; rotate.

Cabbage family: Grow cabbage-family crops in a different bed each year and come back to the same spot only every three or four years. Clubroot, which swells and knots the roots, lives in the soil for many years once it arrives, and root maggot pupae wait in last year's bed.

Pests and problems

What most often goes wrong with kale in Northwest gardens, how to spot it and what to do.

Cabbage worms

Signs: Green caterpillars and ragged holes; white moths fluttering over the bed.

What to do: Insect netting from planting day, and pick off caterpillars.

Gray aphids

Signs: Waxy gray clusters under leaves and in the growing tip, worst in late summer.

What to do: Spray off with water every few days and remove badly infested leaves.

Cabbage root maggots

Signs: Young transplants wilt and stall in spring.

What to do: Row cover sealed at the edges, or a collar around each stem.

Common questions about growing kale

When should I plant kale in Oregon, Washington and Idaho?

Plant in the garden: Mar 15 – Apr 26 in Portland and Seattle, Apr 15 – May 27 in Spokane, Apr 1 – May 13 in Boise and May 12 – Jun 23 in Bend. Pick your town at the top of the page for your own dates.

Does frost make kale sweeter?

Yes. In cold weather kale turns some of its starches into sugars, which protect its cells from freezing. Leaves picked after a few frosts taste noticeably sweeter and milder.

Why is my kale flowering in spring?

Kale is a biennial, so after a winter of cold it goes to flower the next spring. Eat the tender flower shoots before they open, then pull the plant and start new kale for the year.

How do I get rid of aphids on kale?

Spray them off with a strong stream of water, remove badly infested leaves, and leave the ladybugs and tiny parasitic wasps that feed on them. Plants that are watered and fed well tolerate aphids better.

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