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Two hands holding freshly dug potatoes covered in soil

Oregon · Washington · Idaho

When to plant potatoes

Plant in the garden: Portland and Seattle Mar 15 – Apr 26; Spokane Apr 15 – May 27; Boise Apr 1 – May 13; Bend May 12 – Jun 23.

Potatoes are the underground tubers of a nightshade-family plant first farmed in the Andes of South America, grown from pieces of last year's potatoes rather than from seed. A home garden can grow kinds rarely sold in stores, like fingerlings, purple potatoes and waxy salad types. Idaho grows more potatoes than any other state, and Washington is second.

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Puts potatoes on your free plan, with dates for your town and a spot in your beds.

Difficulty
Easy
Sun
Full sun
Spacing
12 inches apart in rows 30 inches apart
Planting depth
4 inches deep in a trench
Frost
Handles light frost
First harvest
About 95 days after planting

Use certified seed potatoes. Hill soil around stems as they grow.

Potato planting dates

TownsPlant in the garden
Portland, OR, Seattle and Tacoma, WAMar 15 – Apr 26
Spokane, WAApr 15 – May 27
Boise and Meridian, ID, Astoria, ORApr 1 – May 13
Bend and Redmond, ORMay 12 – Jun 23

Dates for six main cities. For any of the other 80 towns, type it in the box at the top of the page or browse all towns.

Potato year at a glance

TaskJFMAMJJASOND
PlantMarApr
HarvestJulAugSepOct

Around Portland. Colder towns, especially east of the Cascades, run a few weeks later; the table above has your town's planting dates.

How to grow potatoes

  1. Prepare the bed: loosen the soil and mix in an inch or two of compost.
  2. Plant seed potatoes on your city's dates, 4 inches deep in a trench, 12 inches apart in rows 30 inches apart. Cut large ones into pieces with at least two eyes each.
  3. As plants grow, pile soil or straw around the stems so the potatoes stay covered.
  4. Harvest: Dig new potatoes when the plants flower. For storage potatoes, wait two weeks after the tops die back.

Video by Royal Horticultural Society. Plays from YouTube when you click it. Watch on YouTube

Growing potatoes in your part of the Northwest

The same plant behaves differently on the wet west side, the foggy coast and the dry, colder east side.

West-side valleys

Willamette Valley, Puget Sound, southern Oregon

Late blight is the big risk in wet late summers, so water at the soil, not over the leaves, and dig the crop once vines die back. Wireworms are common where lawn was recently dug up.

Coast

Oregon and Washington coast

Potatoes grow well in the cool climate, but the damp, foggy weather favors late blight. Choose blight-tolerant varieties and give plants good spacing.

East of the Cascades

Columbia Basin, Yakima, Boise, Spokane, north Idaho

Irrigated Columbia Basin and southern Idaho soils grow much of the country's potatoes. Water evenly to avoid knobby or hollow tubers, and watch for Colorado potato beetles, which are common east of the Cascades but rare west of them.

High desert and mountain towns

Central Oregon, high eastern Oregon valleys, McCall, Salmon

Late frosts can nip emerging shoots, so hill soil over them if frost is forecast. Early and mid-season varieties fit the short season best.

More potato varieties

More widely sold picks that do well somewhere in the Northwest. The tag says which part of the Northwest suits each one best.

Yukon Gold

Yellow-flesh, all-purpose · Midseason

Smooth, thin-skinned potatoes with buttery yellow flesh. Good for mashing, roasting and boiling, and one of the easiest seed potatoes to find each spring.

Both sides

German Butterball

Yellow-flesh heirloom, late · Late season

Round to oblong potatoes with golden, buttery flesh and excellent flavor. It is a good keeper and a favorite for fall storage.

Both sides

Red Norland

Red-skinned, early · Early season

Smooth red skin and white flesh, ready early in summer. Great as new potatoes, and some scab resistance helps in alkaline or recently limed soils.

Both sides

Russet Burbank

Classic baking russet · Late season

The standard long russet for baking and fries. It needs a long, warm season with steady watering and does especially well in irrigated gardens east of the Cascades.

East side

Kennebec

White all-purpose · Midseason

Large, smooth white potatoes with good yields and good storage. A versatile choice for fries, baking and mashing that tolerates a range of soils.

Both sides

Russian Banana

Yellow fingerling · Late season

Small, crescent-shaped potatoes with waxy yellow flesh that holds its shape when roasted or boiled. Productive and widely sold as a gourmet fingerling.

Both sides

How much to grow

How many to plant

For a family of four, about 10 to 15 pounds of seed potatoes, which plants a 60- to 100-foot row.

What to expect

About 5 to 10 pounds of potatoes for every pound of seed potato planted.

Storing the harvest

Cure unwashed for a week or two in the dark, then store somewhere cool (about 40°F), dark and humid. Late varieties keep four to six months.

What to plant after potatoes

Around Portland, the potato harvest wraps up around October. These crops can still go into the same bed, and they come from a different plant family, which helps with rotation.

Portland dates. Pick your town at the top of the page for yours.

Key numbers

Top care tip: Keep piling soil or straw around the stems as they grow so no tubers see light and turn green.

The plant science

The plant biology behind the advice above, in plain language.

Start with certified seed potatoes

Potatoes are grown from pieces of tubers, so diseases and viruses travel with them. Certified seed potatoes are inspected and tested for these problems. Grocery potatoes may carry diseases, and some are treated to slow sprouting.

Cut large seed potatoes into pieces of about 1½ to 2 ounces, each with at least one or two eyes, and let them dry a day or two before planting. Pre-sprouting them in a bright, cool room for two to four weeks (called chitting) gives a faster, earlier crop.

Soil pH and scab

Potatoes tolerate acidic soil, with a pH of about 5.0 to 6.5. Common scab, the rough, corky patches on the skin, is caused by soil bacteria that are much less active at a pH of 5.2 or below. So don't lime before potatoes, and avoid fresh manure, which also encourages scab. Keeping the soil moist for the first several weeks after tubers start forming also reduces it.

Temperature and tuber formation

Plant when the soil is at least about 45°F; seed pieces sit idle or rot in colder, wet soil. Tubers form best when the soil is about 60 to 70°F and slow down when it's much warmer. Mulch helps keep the soil cool in hot summers east of the Cascades.

Hilling and green potatoes

Potatoes form on underground stems along the buried part of the plant. Hilling soil or mulch up around the stems as they grow gives more room for tubers and keeps them covered. Tubers exposed to light turn green. The green is harmless chlorophyll, but it signals that solanine, a bitter natural toxin, is building up too. Cut away green parts, and discard potatoes that are heavily green or taste bitter.

Water and late blight

Give potatoes about an inch or two of water a week, as evenly as possible. Uneven watering causes knobby, cracked or hollow tubers. Late blight, the same disease that hits tomatoes, can sweep through potatoes in cool, wet weather. Water at the soil, and if blight appears, cut and bag the tops and wait two weeks before digging so spores on the soil don't infect the tubers.

Harvest and storage

Dig new potatoes once the plants flower. For storage, wait until about two weeks after the tops die back so the skins thicken. Cure them for a week or two somewhere dark and humid at 50 to 60°F, then store them dark at about 40 to 45°F. Colder than that, potatoes turn some of their starch into sugar, which makes them taste sweet and brown too much when fried.

Good neighbors and crop rotation

Good neighbors

  • Bush beans. Lower plants that fit along the edges and don't compete for the same nutrients.
  • Lettuce. Grows between rows early, before the potato vines spread.

Keep apart

  • Tomatoes. Both catch late blight, and each spreads it to the other.

Tomato family: Tomatoes, potatoes, peppers, eggplant, tomatillos and ground cherries are all one family. Keep them out of the same bed for three years: early blight survives on old plant debris and verticillium wilt lives in the soil. Dig up volunteer potatoes, which can carry late blight over winter.

Pests and problems

What most often goes wrong with potatoes in Northwest gardens, how to spot it and what to do.

Late blight

Signs: Dark, greasy patches on leaves and stems in wet late summers, then rot in the tubers.

What to do: Plant certified seed potatoes, keep leaves dry, cut down infected vines two weeks before digging, and pull volunteer potatoes.

Wireworms

Signs: Small round holes bored through the tubers.

What to do: Avoid planting where lawn grew in the last few years, and dig promptly when the crop is ready.

Green potatoes

Signs: Green skin where tubers poked into the light.

What to do: Keep them covered with soil or straw. Cut away green parts before eating.

Common questions about growing potatoes

When should I plant potatoes in Oregon, Washington and Idaho?

Plant in the garden: Mar 15 – Apr 26 in Portland and Seattle, Apr 15 – May 27 in Spokane, Apr 1 – May 13 in Boise and May 12 – Jun 23 in Bend. Pick your town at the top of the page for your own dates.

Can I plant grocery store potatoes?

They may grow, but they can carry diseases and viruses into your soil, and some are treated to slow sprouting. Certified seed potatoes are tested and grow more reliably.

What causes scab on potatoes?

Soil bacteria that are most active in neutral or alkaline soil. Don't lime before potatoes, skip fresh manure, keep the soil moist after tubers start forming, and grow scab-resistant varieties. Scab is only skin deep; the potatoes are fine to eat once peeled.

Are green potatoes safe to eat?

Cut away the green parts and any sprouts. The green signals that solanine, a bitter natural toxin, has built up from exposure to light. Discard potatoes that are heavily green or taste bitter.

Should I store potatoes in the fridge?

No. Below about 40°F, potatoes convert starch to sugar, which makes them taste sweet and darken when fried. Store them dark, around 40 to 45°F, like a cool garage or basement.

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